![]() The transitions from light to dark, for example under the breastplate, are also quite smooth. On the parts painted with diluted Agrax Earthshade, we have an extremely smooth result on the flat areas, yet the brown pigments have settled very nicely into the recesses, creating a more pronounced shading than Lahmian Medium did. Contrast Medium has a medium viscosity and a slightly milky appearance. The low viscosity makes Lahmian Medium unique, but I can only put it in the C-tier, especially as there is another product that does everything that Lahmian Medium does but better. I tested thinning Kantor Blue, and Lahmian Medium achieved the desired effect there, but I would still be careful if you want to thin normal acrylic paints with Lahmian Medium.Īll in all, it’s a mixed bag. ![]() The areas painted with thinned Wyldwood Contrast Paint don’t convince me so much, they look quite uneven and lack definition, and unfortunately thinning with Rhinox Hide didn’t work at all and bled out the brown pigments. Mixed with Dark Wood Speedpaint we see a quite smooth result, but the recesses dried shiny and cloudy where a lot of wash has gathered. The shading on the parts of the model painted with diluted Agrax Earthshade is quite pale and soft, however, the transitions can be quite harsh and there is a weird staining effect visible on the edges of the bolt pistol’s casing. I therefore recommend using Lahmian Medium more sparingly than the other mediums. However, this makes your washes quite thin and thus somewhat more difficult to control. Lahmian Medium has the lowest viscosity, so the pigments are flowing well into the recesses. I’ll rank the results in a tier list from best to trash and I promise, the results will be quite surprising!Ĭheck out my video here (and see me dress-up like a wannabe Aeldari Ranger): The diluted washes will then be applied to a bunch of Space Marine Intercessors I have primed with Corax White, which is a light grey matt primer. Today I am testing six acrylic mediums: Lahmian and Contrast Medium from Games Workshop, Speedpaint and Quickshade Wash Medium from The Army Painter, Vallejo Glaze Medium, and Dispel Magic from Scale 75’s Instant Color range.Įach medium will be used for thinning Agrax Earthshade wash, Wyldwood Contrast Paint, Dark Wood Speedpaint, and Rhinox Hide. Are you interested in other acrylic mediums? Then drop me a comment and I’ll see what I can do in a future post or video. There are also a lot of other acrylic mediums that make your paint more matt, more glossy, more transparent or prolong the drying time, but these are not the point today. Some people recommend doing the spinning over a lawn or something similar, but the recommendation on ATT was to spin the mini inside a sealed cardboard box with a hole just large enough to fit the mini through, so that the flying varnish ends up reasonably well-contained.First things first: In this post, we talk only about acrylic mediums used for thinning washes like Citadel Shade paints or diluting ink-like paints like Contrast and Speedpaint. I have a feeling that minis made out of multiple metal parts might shake apart if they aren't pinned, and might be too heavy for the fail to stay on securely, but I've not seen anyone talking about it. It matches what I read on AdvancedTauTactica when I was playing 40K, but I'm not sure that it'll read across completely, because one of the most popular methods for removing puddled drip on plastic miniatures is to glue the base of the mini to a nail with a large, flat head, and then use the nail as a drill bit, and use the drill to spin the excess varnish off. ![]() I don't know if this helps, but I have a thread bookmarked on BoardGameGeek that talks at some length about dipping, and various methods of removing pooled varnish. If the existing pools continue to bug me - and they may not - I might cover them with a second layer of base coat after the anti-shine and decals are applied. Fortunately, there has been little pooling so far (I really shook my minis!). Worse, if you do try to remove them with a brush/swab/toothpick you tend to create a smear that ruins the effect of the dip. (The last time I 'worked with them' I was 8 and helping my dad put together a starship Enterprise!) Because the dip is so thick it's really difficult to remove the pools that don't come off by shaking the model. It's been ages since I worked with oil-based paints. Regarding pooling: This is a bit of a problem. The result is a dirty heraldic parade scheme worn down by the weather. It really is simply a matter of style - the 'mechs don't look factory fresh, but rather like they're war machines that have been in the field for a while. The Soft Tone didn't distort the white on my Lyrans too badly. Well, I'm not ready for pics yet (still waiting on my decals), but I have dipped a couple of minis. ![]()
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